Just in time

I would not put mono on a diver unless you want to be replacing the dipseys, flashers and flies that you loose when the line breaks. The braid will cost more initually but in the long run it is cheaper. The magda pro reels work just fine for 10 trips a year. Only problem I had with the Magda pros is the level wind would quit working and the release would constantly click back in when I was trying to free spool. Never had any issues with the convectors but I am now replacing them all with Tekotas. In time you will want to run wire on your dipseys. Then you will need a metal spool like the Convector.

I have used them on a rigger 200 down. I did have 100 foot of line out before clipping becuase I did not want a fish near my boat while I was unclipping. I fished it 50 plus below the ball. I had good sucess mid day in the deep water with it. I also clipped it on wire and sent out the chute. Real good success with this also but unclipping the weight is a pain. Usually used it down the chute when it was just me and my daughter. Covered the same depth as core or copper and she didnt have to reel so much. She is 11 and the 450 copper needs my assist when she is reeling. The fight on the wire with just the torpedo is fun. I never tried running more than 1 in my spread at a time.

JUST-N-TIME Charters

Captain

If you use a flasher buy the more expensive flasher. I believe it is called power flasher. It will charge the lures with one flash where as the $10 dollar ones do not compare even with many flashes. The good flasher is about $22 or a little more. The UV light glows a lure a lot quicker than any regular light. You can pretty much give the lure a quick pass over and it will glow.

I have a power flasher and a good UV light. I use one on half the boat and the other on the other half. I never saw a differance in bite between the sides. The flashers get wet and they are junk where as I have not had a problem with my FLUKE UV leak detector light. Batteries seem to last a lot longer in the light than the flasher also. I do not super charge my lures on flash with the flasher unless they are black or purple and a quick pass over with the UV light. When the lake has been rough I find the water is dirtier then I charge them more. Other wise too bright in the clear water we have in Lake Michigan spooks the fish in my oppinion.

I bought my Brutes and trees from LOTR. Price and comunication is hard to beat.Thanks Tony

I run two riggers 160 and down and keep the third rigger around 100 foot. I use dark colored spoons like the dreamweaver purple frog on the deep riggers. I run sliders on all my riggers. I always make sure that I am running 5,10 and 15 color leadcores and 150, 300 and 450 coppers. I use orange or yellow on the higher lines and green or blue in the middle. I catch alot of fish in the deeper waters using spoons. I run my probe on one of the deep riggers. Purple Frog and Blue Frog always catch fish when run deep on my boat. Sometimes I run a splatterback Silver horde plug on the riggers also. I like to cover the whole column with lures. I also always run a couple wire divers with spin doctors on them. I believe they attract fish to the spread. I have not been that sucessful with the large paddles on my riggers.

From my past experience I believe the spoons with trebles need trebles for the same action. I like single hooks on my flys but have experienced dramatic differance in number of strikes when I changed the spoons. After fishing with Frank (Priority one) I sharpen all my hooks even on new lures and have almost 100% hook rate. Make sure you sharpen and remove the chrome off the hook on the point and you will get good hook ups. I like a treble with a single stinger on my meat rigs.

I prefer wire for diver rods. I have 4 with Torpedo 40lb wire but I also have 2 power Pro 40 braid setups that I use. A lot less lost gear with the braid from mono. If I only knew many years ago I wouldnt have left so many deposits in the lake.

I ran the 19 strand torpedo wire all last year on 4 diver rods and 1 rod I use Torpedo divers on. I have Shimano Talora rods with the swivel tip. I spooled all my rods with 1000 foot of wire in the spring and never had a fish break me off this year. I like how soft the wire is and how easy it is to tie knots with. It does occasionaly fray and 50 or so foot has to be stripped. I will re spool my rods again in the spring and I plan on using the Torpedo wire again. I do not know what was causing the wire to fray. I have Shimano Tekota reels with nothing that looks like it is cutting the wire. I did fish 60 trips in Lake Michigan last year. Reels still have about 500 foot of wire on them but I change all my lines every spring so I do not loose a ton of equiptment.

I had best success with a large white slick spin doctor with a KRW Riverside fly. The next hottest flasher fly was a large white paddle with an Oceana fly.

I fish 300 FOW water out of Montague and it is not that far out. 300 is a lot further out in Muskegon. I also fish out to 400 Little Point Sauble. I start shallow and work out in the morning and out deep to shallow in the evening. Last year because the water was so warm most my fishing was in 100 to 250 FOW. 450 coppers with Silver horde splatter backs were best producers along with 15 and 18 color lead. I have a single engine 26 foot Thompson Fisherman.

Cannon never made a probe that did not send a signal up the downrigger wire that I know of. Those two probes take differant displays to work. I had a couple cannon probes on my old boat and had a friend that gave me his older cannon probe like the one in the top of the photo after he dropped mine overboard and they did not communicate. My probes were like the one on the bottom. They had a wire hanging out the bottom rear can not see if you has that.I liked the light clarity feature the cannon had. I bought Sub Troll for my current boat and it works fine with coated wire.

I run smelt that have been cured on meat rigs. I only tend to catch the larger fish on my wire diver with large paddle in front. Red is my best color. I also use the slick strips and see no differrance on number of fish between the meat and them. I run the slick strips more than I mess with the meat. I can usually get the fish to bite my spoons so I never have more than two meat rigs in my spread. Usually my deep rigger or my two deep divers.

Any boat can fish pro if they feel the payout is higher. You need an observer though.

I have big Jon Brutes that I bought from Lord Of The Riggers. I run 15lb balls and have fished them 300 down. The only problem with the Brutes is the ball holder is designed for 10-12lb balls. I take mine off every trip because they fall out of the holders while running. I fish rough water and have no issues with the booms. I have fished with Big Jons on my last three boats. I like the simplicity of the units. The fact that they help with tournaments and the availability of the product. No battery draw while the boat is sitting in the slip. If I were to buy something different it would be Vectors. They are faster.Vectors were not available when I bought my Brutes last spring.

Most tangles with Dipseys happen if you do not drive straight and when setting lines out. I use a slide diver set on 4 no ring. Next rod is a number 1 set on 2 with or with out ring. Inside rod is magnum with a ring. I usually only have a tangle if someone lets one out too quick. Let the diver pull to its place and let the drag slowly let the line out. Catch alot of fish on the way down. If you fish any tournaments long leaders are not legal. You can not hand line fish on the tournament trail. If you want a long lead run slide divers. Just my 2 cents.

I would suggest the 8 foot Talora. I run 3 dipseys off each side when the lake is less than 3 foot waves. My rods are 20 inches apart and the rod lengths are 8' wire, 9' wire and 10.5 power pro. The 7' talora is nice too but it is 1 piece.

Nick,

You are correct. I am sorry for the mistake. I was talking about the magnet holders they make for holding the net to the handle and it comes unconnected when you net a fish. Mike

I bought two of these and lost the part that hooks to the net on both nets one trip. Personally feel they need a better hook connected to the magnet. I will make one out of aluminum and pin a good snap swivle to it.

It has deep side walls and plenty of room for a small boat. 10 foot beam sure is nice. I went 5 for 6 tonight. I posted the report. Thanks Mike

First trip out we went 5 for 6. The little one was a hitch hiker. One on a dipsey in which was the little one. Bloody nose moonshine fly with a blue glow spin doctor. 3 on SWR 87 down with 10lb ball. The laker was in 150 FOW the two 5lb kings were in 90 FOW All were caught with a Moonshine double trouble. The 14 lb King came on a Stinger glow wonderbread 93 down with a 10lb ball in 90 FOW. I did have issues with the Zboards diving with 450 copper and 17.5 core. I lost one with the core tonight. It dove and went right behind the boat and caught my wire diver. Switched over to my My walleye boards and the troubles went away even though the core did not produce tonight. Lake was calm and I tried to tune the z Boards. Something with the starboard side boards they will not run on my boat without diving.

Yes, nailer i sold the Tiara last year in August and replaced it with the Thompson. I hope this new boat will catch fish like the tiara did. I needed more room to charter. The boat passed the inspection today so now I can start to advertise Just-N-Time charters. Atleast now I can write off the expenses involved. Going out tonight I will take some photos of the catch and post tomorrow.

Getting inspection from the DNR today for charter fishing. I will start posting fishing reports soon. Thanks Mike

Boat has been in the shop getting a new transom and engine. i believe she is ready to fish now finally. Big Jon brutes and trees from lord of the riggers.